Tank ribs, completed - I didn't feel like spreading them out (again) to photograph ... but, they're done:
Sunday, April 28, 2019
Section 18 - Fuel Tank (ribs, stiffeners, zee-brackets, skin)
Lots of little tasks were completed on the left fuel tank: deburred the tank ribs (edges and holes); dimpled the rib flanges; cut, deburred and dimpled stiffeners; cut, deburred, countersunk and riveted nutplates to zee-brackets; deburred edges and holes of tank skin; cut, drilled, deburred and dimpled j-channel stiffener; and, dimpled tank skin. NOTE that all internal structures (e.g. ribs) were dimpled using Cleaveland Aircraft Tool tank dimple dies, which dimple slightly deeper to accommodate a thicker layer of Proseal - not sure if this matters, but since I bought those dimple dies, damnit I'm using them! Any task that did NOT involve proseal was welcomed (I'm dreading the mess, and time constraints; thus, I'm still finalizing the plan of attack).
Tank ribs, completed - I didn't feel like spreading them out (again) to photograph ... but, they're done:
Tank ribs, completed - I didn't feel like spreading them out (again) to photograph ... but, they're done:
Monday, April 22, 2019
Section 17 - Outboard Leading Edge (fabricated wing stand/cradle)
Fabricated a wing stand from an RV-10 drawing from Mouser's website (http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/wingassembly.html). I changed a few dimensions to fit the RV-14A, including shortening the length to 8' (like Shawn did here: https://myrv14build.blogspot.com/p/wing-cradle-coming-soon.html), using a slightly different method to bolster the center posts that hold the carpet, and making those posts 18" long (instead of 16") to better hold a 20" carpet width with a 1" overlap at each end. After a few days, and a total of about 5.5hrs, this stand is (mostly) ready to hold the wings. Original drawing from Mouser:
Sunday, April 14, 2019
Sections 17 & 18 - Outb.Lead.Edge & Fuel Tank (riveted leading edge to spar; light lens; started fuel tank)
It's been 2.5 weeks since I last updated the blog ... but, I've accomplished a few tasks during that time, as well as did a few non-build items (Sun 'n Fun; work retreat; kids' activities; etc. etc.) that took more time than usual away from the RV-14A.
I finished the outboard leading edge, which involved a lot of new skills when working with the plexiglass light lens. From reading the forums, many builders have had to repeat this step due to lens cracking, mostly at the drilled holes. It involves using #30 and #27 plexi-bits (60deg point), and drilling VERY slowly. The pneumatic drill is too fast, so I used my Dewalt cordless drill on the slow setting. Cutting the edges was a dilemma that I researched for quite some time - do I saw, route, melt? A 1.5" diameter plastic-specific cutoff wheel for my Dremel seemed to work well, and was what some folks use (others use different cutoff wheels). Plastic EVERYWHERE, including a small, hot piece that went into my eye (even with eye protection over my regular glasses) - that was my fault; I was looking right over the work and my eye protection was slipping. Lesson learned.
Used pneumatic squeezer to rivet bottom aft rivets on outboard leading edge to main spar:
I finished the outboard leading edge, which involved a lot of new skills when working with the plexiglass light lens. From reading the forums, many builders have had to repeat this step due to lens cracking, mostly at the drilled holes. It involves using #30 and #27 plexi-bits (60deg point), and drilling VERY slowly. The pneumatic drill is too fast, so I used my Dewalt cordless drill on the slow setting. Cutting the edges was a dilemma that I researched for quite some time - do I saw, route, melt? A 1.5" diameter plastic-specific cutoff wheel for my Dremel seemed to work well, and was what some folks use (others use different cutoff wheels). Plastic EVERYWHERE, including a small, hot piece that went into my eye (even with eye protection over my regular glasses) - that was my fault; I was looking right over the work and my eye protection was slipping. Lesson learned.
Used pneumatic squeezer to rivet bottom aft rivets on outboard leading edge to main spar:
Tuesday, March 26, 2019
Section 16 - Top Wing Skins (j-channel; aileron hinge bracket attach)
The final parts of Section 16 have been completed, including riveting the spars, riveting the long and short j-channels, and attaching the outboard aileron hinge bracket:
Everything riveted on the top skin, except the j-channel in this pic:
Everything riveted on the top skin, except the j-channel in this pic:
Section 17 - Outboard Leading Edge (J-channel; stall horn switch)
A few final touches on the outboard leading edge, before attaching it to the main spar assembly.
Drilled tie-down hole:
Drilled tie-down hole:
Sunday, March 17, 2019
Section 17 - Outboard Leading Edge (Riveted 7 ribs, splice strip, mount bracket)
I also had time this weekend to rivet the 7 ribs, splice strip and mount bracket to the left outboard leading edge skin.
Looking through a lightening hole at the aft portion of the light bay - black part faces forward, thus why black paint is only on one side:
Looking through a lightening hole at the aft portion of the light bay - black part faces forward, thus why black paint is only on one side:
Section 16 - Top Wing Skins (Outboard Aileron Hinge Bracket success!; more top skin riveting)
After much effort, sweat, worry, and suggestions from a fellow RV-14A builder (thanks again, Ken B.!), I was able to rivet the left outboard aileron hinge bracket without having the bearing stick. This took me THREE tries, and needless to say, I was getting worried I was just a crappy builder. Although that may be true, it turns out there is a slight imperfection in how these hinge brackets were made at the factory. If you line up the rivet holes, which line up well to one another (and like I did the first two tries), then the recesses for the bearing do not align well. That probably imparts extra force on the races, making the bearing either tight or stuck. This time, I switched the order from what is written in the instructions as well as added a few steps:
- deburr edges and enlarge all bearing holes/recesses a tiny bit (little file, 400 grit sandpaper, scotchbrite pad)
- straighten all three pieces, especially W-1013A
- buff with scotchbrite pad
- clean with acetone, SEM Solve, and then prime with SEM primer; let dry/cure overnight. When priming, mask off the bearing recesses
- press bearing gently into W-1013A using 11mm and 15mm sockets (NOT the 14mm per instructions, since it is too small)
- make sure the bearing recesses in W-1013C-LX and W-1013C-R fit loosely over the bearing portion that sticks out of both sides of W-1013A. This is important, since if the bearing fits well within all three of these pieces, the rivet holes do NOT all align! And, neither do the edges of the three pieces - they look a little "off" but this is perfectly fine
- find a couple holes that are aligned close-enough to cleco
- use a cleco clamp to clamp the area just forward of the bearing (shown below)
- ream and cleco one hole at a time in a semi-random pattern
- deburr and rivet one hole at a time using pneumatic squeezer - start with a couple AN470s
- countersink one of the three top aft holes, and then rivet
- rivet other AD470s and/or countersink and then rivet the AD426s in a random pattern, making sure to leave the aft-most 3 countersunk holes until the end.
- as the bearing gets in the way of the microstop countersink cage, countersink those three aft holes manually, checking with a rivet as you go
- finish riveting with AD426s, starting with the center of the 3 aft-most holes
After this procedure, the bearing moves Like Buttah! No binding of the bearing whatsoever. Not sure if I should post to VAF, or send to Van's tech support for their input.
Parts after priming:
- deburr edges and enlarge all bearing holes/recesses a tiny bit (little file, 400 grit sandpaper, scotchbrite pad)
- straighten all three pieces, especially W-1013A
- buff with scotchbrite pad
- clean with acetone, SEM Solve, and then prime with SEM primer; let dry/cure overnight. When priming, mask off the bearing recesses
- press bearing gently into W-1013A using 11mm and 15mm sockets (NOT the 14mm per instructions, since it is too small)
- make sure the bearing recesses in W-1013C-LX and W-1013C-R fit loosely over the bearing portion that sticks out of both sides of W-1013A. This is important, since if the bearing fits well within all three of these pieces, the rivet holes do NOT all align! And, neither do the edges of the three pieces - they look a little "off" but this is perfectly fine
- find a couple holes that are aligned close-enough to cleco
- use a cleco clamp to clamp the area just forward of the bearing (shown below)
- ream and cleco one hole at a time in a semi-random pattern
- deburr and rivet one hole at a time using pneumatic squeezer - start with a couple AN470s
- countersink one of the three top aft holes, and then rivet
- rivet other AD470s and/or countersink and then rivet the AD426s in a random pattern, making sure to leave the aft-most 3 countersunk holes until the end.
- as the bearing gets in the way of the microstop countersink cage, countersink those three aft holes manually, checking with a rivet as you go
- finish riveting with AD426s, starting with the center of the 3 aft-most holes
After this procedure, the bearing moves Like Buttah! No binding of the bearing whatsoever. Not sure if I should post to VAF, or send to Van's tech support for their input.
Parts after priming:
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