A few details from this week:
- riveted all 14 ribs to spar; installed final 4 sets of bolts and final-torqued and torque-striped
- prepared outboard aileron bracket (oh no!) and primed all 3 pieces
- drilled, countersunk and riveted outboard aileron bracket; prepared inboard aileron bracket; drilled and deburred 3 rear spar doubler plates; drilled aileron pushrod hole in doubler plate; enlarged hole in inboard doubler plate and straightened plate; prepped and straightened rear spar reinforcement fork; clecoed everything to ribs
- final-drilled all #30 holes common to doublers, rear spar and ribs; deburred all parts (edges/holes); primed inboard aileron (service bulletin) and all 5 doublers;machine countersunk #40 holes in spar flanges and #30 holes in W-1007-C inboard doubler; dimpled flanges of rear spar; riveted inboard aileron and doublers to rear spar
- reamed 3/8" inboard hole in rear spar doublers; riveted rear spar onto ribs; done.
- clecoed wing walk doublers and top skin to wing assembly; match drilled holes for nutplates; final drilled all holes common to skin, doublers and ribs; final drilled nutplate holes to #19; dimpled aft nutplate for #8 screw
Flap hinge brackets primed and attached to the 3rd and 8th rib (starting inboard):
Inboard rib, primed and attached to the torque tube assembly:
14 ribs installed:
Another view:
Third view:
The right, outboard aileron bracket. These brackets come mis-drilled from the factory, and if one follows the instructions, it is guaranteed to bind the fragile bearing. Instead, deburr, straighten and prime the parts, insert bearing, make sure the parts fit loosely around the bearing, cleco the 2-3 holes that best match, and individually final-drill, deburr, and rivet one hole at a time. This includes countersinking. Do the three holes nearest the bearing last. The bearing moves freely:
Match-drilling spar doublers, including aileron rod hole:
Two more spar doublers:
Finished aileron rod hole:
Parts for the Service Bulletin (i.e., inboard aileron bracket), before priming:
Test-fitting rear spar and doublers to wing assembly:
Doublers and aileron brackets, primed:
Riveted doublers to spar:
Riveted doubler and aileron bracket (mostly) to spar - finished riveting when on assembly:
Last doubler, riveted to rear spar:
I guess these are doublers, too ... and they're riveted to the rear spar:
Rear spar, riveted to wing assembly:
Another view:
Match-drilled nutplate holes; final drilled all holes common to doublers, top inboard skin, and 4 inboard ribs:
Another view:
One of three projects from the EAA SportAir workshop - this part involves masking the area to be filled with microballoons and flox:
Magically, we have a decent (for a first attempt) transition between windscreen and aluminum ... and the technique deviates a bit from Van's suggestion (and is far easier and better to do). I really enjoyed working with Aeropoxy Light; easy to mold, sand, and fill. One issue though - in class, someone didn't mix Part A well, so when I started using the can, I mixed what remained, and then proceeded to add Part B hardener. That extra percentage of liquid in Part A made it a bit more liquidy than it should have been, so the whole line drooped/slid a little during curing. But, Aeropoxy light is so easy to work with that I was able to salvage the transition enough for the course. If this were my airplane, I would have simply added another layer of Aeropoxy Light (correctly mixed, since it would be my can of Aeropoxy), cure, and sand. And, due to time constraints in the course, we kept the pre-preg to one application of two plies of BID glass; one could add more microballons/flox filler paste if needed, two more layers of pre-preg, and then finish with Aeropoxy.
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